January 31, 2005
Our route Updated -- see May 1
This is the blog Scott Urban and Brice Minnigh updated whilst cycling the Andes in 2005. The trip was 3000 kms and lasted a little over two months. There are some entries about actually cycling in between all the wine and steak, and some of these might even be helpful to those planning a similar route. Read on for the full story ...
Mike Williams said:
Brice & Scott,
One word--excellent dudes, excellent. Ooops! I guess that's 3 words, now more...yow!
My uni email works as does my yahoo; uni was out for awhile as I was on leave to India for two months. Now back teaching again, so it works.
Nice garb, fellows! You put the Iowa Mormons to shame. Brice's tatoos might not be appropriate for his Tabernacle Choir audition, though...
No biking in India, but did ride outside-hang-off of the door of a crammed public gongongqiche outside of Dehra Dun much to my wife's dismay as she squeezed a mong the crushed passengers to find a seat. A little China nostalgia for me, though...
I will assign your website as extra credit reading for the students I teach in the Culture & Intensive English Program here at UNI; they come from all over the world; those from South America will esp. enjoy, I'm sure. One of my former students is from Pisco.
Thanks, again, keep me updated. Great writeups and pics; get some more closeups of youse and those around you, though.
Have a great ride!
Mike
Lucas said:
Hi guys,
I'm a former Mike’s student. I'm from Argentina!!! I couldn't believe when I saw this web page. I did something very similar but in the south of Argentina and Chile. I don’t have a web page but yours motivate me to do it. Congratulation for your trip!!!. I’ll love to talk with you about it. I now that it is the best way of traveling. I hope to have the opportunity to do something like this in the north of my country in a couple of years. I dream with it. Congratulations again, this is the better way to enjoy the life!!!
February 13, 2005
Overview
Brice and I will meet in Santiago in two days' time. A day or two after that, we'll set off north through the Andes foothills to a town called Hurtado. From there, we'll climb the Andes and cross over into Argentina. We then cycle north for a spell to Tucuman, hopefully taking in the Malbec vineyard “Yacochuya” in Cafayate. We cross back into Chile on the Altiplano, rendezvousing at San Pedro de Atacama with some spare supplies we will have shipped from Santiago. Either we'll (a) go due north into Bolivia and, ultimately, La Paz, or we'll (b) cycle to the coast and turn right up to Bolivia on the nicer route. It'll only be because we want to see the sea pretty badly that we could opt for the latter, given that it means coming off the high plateau only to mount it all over again.
Nir said:
Scott,
Good Luck!
Have fun and keep us posted and jealous...
Take good care.
Maya and Nir
Merav said:
Glad you explain why you "keep doing this" - some people have asked me and no doubt will... so although I myself know the answer, it will be good to direct them to the site. Enjoy the mountains and your time with Brice! Love, Merav.
td said:
urban rocks the andes, dig?
Holly said:
May your body stay hydrated, your stomach full, and your crotch dry.
Good Luck!
XOXOXO
François said:
Bernard Hinault, Laurent Fignon and I wish you an exciting trip.
Matt said:
Good luck Scotty you goddamn loony. You make me feel tired just reading this. I hope you've got a mobile supply of ROCK, and not just the stuff you throw at dogs!
Tekkit.
Rodrigo said:
Congrats Scotty! (and Brice, whom I don't know but already admire). Your guts and love of adventure defy imagination. Show us the way to the heights where only the Condor dares!
Take care, keep safe, and enjoy your ride into the heart of the Andes. A big hug from Priscila, the girls and me.
Rodrigo
February 14, 2005
Pete Day said:
I see you've chosen the Cave Creek Thudbuster s-t. Absolutely my favourite seat post shock hands down!
Brice Minnigh said:
Nice one Mr Day, glad to read your wry wit once again!
The Thudbuster in fact belongs to Scott, because, as Bebb can tell you, I like my seatposts straight and hard.
Given your interest in cylindrical projectiles, I will take a photo of my bike, with a close-up of the seatpost, for your viewing (and any other) pleasure.
By the way, how is the Cannondale holding up? Did you notice that it has a Rock Shox suspension seatpost?
February 18, 2005
Santiago
Hotter than hades. We will roll tomorrow morning before dawn to avoid the heat and the traffic. Santiago is a great place. The people are very amable. They also think Chile, not Peru, is the place for Pisco Sour. We drank a killer 2000 Cab (details are not to hand but rest assured are properly noted). It was around 10 quid.
The bikes are all sorted and loaded, everything came through the flight okay, save for two cycling jerseys which it seems have sprouted legs and walked out of the hotel room. The heat is going to be an issue on this trip. And going north from here in the summer is like being in Arizona in the summer and heading south.
Once we start gaining altitude (not till we turn East from La Serena) presumably we´ll hit cooler climes. That will be an interesting run. Judging it on the map last night (granted we were full of vino tinto) we go from sea level to 4800 metres in one or two hundred kilometres. Above 3000 we´ll limit our altitude gain to 500 metres per day regardless of our condition or the distance.
George said:
Good luck!
Master said:
Have you started dancing in any clubs yet?
That’s great, you were able to update the site. I guess I can live vicariously through you again!
Steve Wilford said:
Dude, what an awsomely bonkers little man you are. Why couldn't you cycle down the side of the Thames like everybody else?
The very best of luck and remember the rules about drinking at high altitude -- its much cheaper
February 23, 2005
Ruta 5
"Hola" said Cristobal as he flew past, kitted out in cycling jersey and racing bike. Route 5 has a wide shoulder and runs parallel to the coastline. Cris and other cyclistas can be seen up and down it. When he overtook us we had just joined the highway, having taken the back route from Santiago via Lampa - Til Til - Quillota.
George said:
Che and I did a similar route a while back, albeit on motorcycles. Could have used that wide shoulder on Route 5 a few times myself after too much vino. Viva la Route 5.
Markie Mark said:
looks like you can't get out of the corporate clown mode mincing Minnigh, wearing that cufflink white shirt while cycling...don't forget the cycling hard mags...
Pichadangui
Looks pretty good but look closer. Nobody is in past their gonads and there's a good reason for that.
February 24, 2005
Los Vilos
Our last sight of the ocean before turning inland and on to Ovalle. In Los Vilos we met a foreign cyclist who claimed to have done everything cycling-wise in Chile, including the pass Agua Negra we intended to do. He looked more like a beach bum and indeed he was -- his information about the Pass was wrong and he nearly misled us into believing we could find food for much of the distance up to the pass. Thanks a lot Matey Boy.
February 26, 2005
Pisco Sour
Pisco Sour tastes wonderful and that´s the main problem with it. It is evil. We drank a bottle of it last night to celebrate arriving in Ovalle, finally off of Route 5. I have spent all day throwing up. On the plus side we found some absolutely fantastic reds and a desert wine that would hold it own with Sauternes. Will post a note with full details in future.
Off to Hurtado tomorrow and Vicuna the day after. We´ll take a rest day there to acclimate before crossing Agua Negra.
George said:
Re: your alcoholism: Beth and I are drinking wine from Chile and pisco cocktails, exclusively, all month. Sure, we have an occasional glass of H2O. In any event, that's our way of showing moral support for your insanity, bullishness, and hedonism. For what it is worth, we have convinced ourselves that our pisco sours are the best in this hemisphere, if not the world. Tell that to the Chileans. Viva la pisco!
Jenny said:
oh well, if you were here in delhi you might just view throwing up on a regular basis as a natural part of life :-)look forward to reading more about your andean odyssey.
Brew Master said:
Fool...
What about the beer? It is nice to see that you are improving the reputation of Americans everywhere as you vomit your way through South America. Keep up the good work! Should I send you a NASCAR hat?
François said:
I'll open a bottle of Sauternes tonight just to check.
February 27, 2005
Serón
We stayed the night in Serón, near Pichasca National Park, on the road from Ovalle to Hurtado.
Thom Storey said:
Ah, it's true. Heavy metal does make the world go 'round! Congratulations on a successful trip and great postings.
The Nashville Cat,
Thom Storey
February 28, 2005
Portezuelo Tres Cruces
Leaving Serón we came across this derelict iglesia. The road winds higher into the hills to reach Hurtado, a quiet and scenic mountain pueblo. From there we turned north to cross the Portezuelo Tres Cruces. The altimetres read around 2000 metres at the top, but we discovered atop the Paso Agua Negra several days later that the altimetres were at least 250-300 metres undershooting, since we had an elevation marker there.
March 02, 2005
Vicuña
Overlooking Vicuña as we arrive from Hurtado.
Leaving Vicuña today for the pass into Argentina. It is hot as blazes out. We plan to take three days to cross the pass. The next town in Argentina will be Rodeo.
The 60 kms from Seron to Vicuña were fantastic. It was 40 degrees the whole way but we stopped for water often, each carrying 5 litres. The pass was 1994 metres so not too bad. A good challenging day of cycling.
Will upload some photos from Argentina.
Andy said:
I know how you feel mate. The lift was out last night and I had to take the stairs. That must have been at least 1,995 metres, and I didn't have 5 litres of water to keep me going.
Anyway, good luck keeping those creaking old bones pedalling between drinking binges. I can't believe you're going to miss the NPC! Wen should be reading his economic report in just a couple of days, and you're stuck over there riding your bike, missing all the excitement. So sad. Well, nothing more to say but... jia you, lao pengyou!
Andy said:
Sorry, I forgot to say... that "Gear List" you posted is the saddest thing I've ever seen. Just had to get that off my chest. Oh, and when you next post something, can you clear this up for me: I was wondering if you engage white man's overbite while cycling the really steep sections?
George said:
It has been freezing in NYC for over a week. Overcast. Snowing too. Still, I don't envy you. Cycling at high altitudes when it is 40 degrees (what's that in farenheit? 104 degrees, right?) seems deadly. Did you plan on the heat? It is probably a walk in the park for you after your previous trips.
Not to annoy you, but here's a reminder: No matter how dehydrated you get, be careful with the drinking water. I got amoebic dysentery in Peru a few years back, in spite of taking every precaution. After traveling for a while, it is easy to get too comfortable and forget about these things. It took me a week to find a good doctor. I almost died.
Looking forward to the photos!
Uva
In the Elqui Valley 20 kms east of Vicuña. These are for export to South Korea. The foreman called us in and cut down four huge bunches for us. They lasted all the way to Rodeo in Argentina. Little did we know then that we´d be relying on them as a staple of our diet for the next three days.
Bets said:
Fantastic pictures!
Ilan said:
Great Picture,After reading all you posts, Dont come back telling it was hard :)
Good luck in the rest of the way.
George said:
When you are in New York, I'd like to get some copies of your best photos from the trip.
Mark said:
The grapes look good, buddy!
Keep the pix rolling in.
Andy said:
From what I can gather, your trip so far has consisted of necking large amounts of the local booze and sitting around in the sun eating exquisite fruit, with a spot of gentle meandering on a bike between bars/vinyards. Not exactly the titanic iron-man struggle of man against nature that you described over pints of bitter in the Kings Arms. I could do what you're doing now, and without your months of prior training, but I have to do silly little things like go to work and pay rent. In short, I want to see fewer pics of grapes and sunsets, and more snaps of you cycling up sheer cliffs, drenched with sweat and blood and fighting off anacondas and Columbian drug-lords.
Anyway, while your over there taking it easy, its all kicking off in your absence: Tung Chee-hwa has resigned, as has Lee Hun-jai (I was on stand-by to talk about Tung on CNN -- which would have been hilarious for everyone except me and CNN -- but escaped). You'll be highly excited to know that Chinese inflation shot back up to 3.9% and Japanese consumer spending is higher than it has been in ages. Less dull news: you missed an episode of Question Time from Shanghai in which panelists openly discussed Falun Gong, torture and anti-government protests... unbelievable stuff, and apparently it was shown not only in the UK, but also in China on the net! Well, sorry for the long boring posting, but I know that by belittling your journey and keeping you informed of events, wo jiu bangzhu ni. Hao, wo zou le. Hai jia you!
March 05, 2005
Paso Agua Negra
We reached Paso Agua Negra on the third day out of Vicuna, at 130 pm. We discovered at the top that the altimetres were undershooting by 200 (Brice) and 300 (Scott) metres. See Brice's "reflections" (March 11) for the full account.
March 06, 2005
San Juan de Jáchal
A cool town. Everyone travels by bike and they park 'em against the sidewalks. Nobody worries about theft.
March 09, 2005
Ruta 40 to Villa Union
Desert-o-rama on the road between Guandacol and Villa Union. Don´t slag the formalwear until you try it.
March 10, 2005
Cuesta Miranda
A 'mini pass' between Villa Union and Chilecito. One of the most beautiful segments of the trip - deep desert red tones set against green saguaros and white-topped mountain peaks. This is shirt Number Two (lime green, Merav's favourite) of the trip for Scott.
March 11, 2005
Reflections on Paso Agua Negra
We´ve been on the road for a few weeks now, so I guess it´s about time that I make a contribution to the site. Rest assured that what is possibly the very conspicuous absence of one of the two cyclists on this expedition is neither the result of a) me being too busy cycling to write, or b) too busy enjoying the regional wines to write, but rather just the result of pure laziness.
March 12, 2005
George said:
I haven't seen Brice look so skeptical about food since he was 10 years old and our school served "meatloaf surprise." What confuses me is that this portion of locro looks tasty.
Slava Begin said:
Brison smory na fotky i mne kajetsya chto ti xochesh ili dumaesh sovsem drugoe ;))) Cheers
Jill said:
I don't know what that is you're eating in the photo, but it certainly isn't locro! Looks more like canelones to me.
Steve Aldred said:
After several weeks alone, Brice found the Canelones strangely attractive.
March 13, 2005
Route update Udpated again - see May 1
We're staying on the more westerly route up north through Argentina. We'll miss the provincial capitals -- La Rioja and Tucumán -- in favour of the pueblos of the westerly route. Short of Cafayate we'll hit some ruins at Quilmes and take an extra day to climb Mt Quilmes.
Richard Wheeler said:
Brice,
Somehow I received an email today with the website so have enjoyed looking at the photos and comments of the trip so far. Looking forward to viewing more photos and reading news as the journey continues. Safe riding!!
Steve White said:
Hey Brice
Next time you get the chance - could be a while then - could you guys take a look at your Tibet trip site? I got hooked on your previous adventure, sat here for a good while this afternoon reading through July and August, only to find September had done a runner.
No I am tormented. Does the butler do it? Do Brice's headaches return and temporarily blinded he hurtles off the road where he is set upon by dogs that have been pursuing ever since you all set on that one before Lhasa? Does Fangkun's farting ever let up? Do you all end up LOOKING like dumplings? The answers to these and other questions are gnawing at me and keeping me as sleepless as Scott that first week. Well, OK, I'll allow you that at work I'm supposed to be sleepless but anyhow.
Trust los perros de los Andes are all lapdogs by comparison,
Steve
Jill said:
If you take that route to Quilmes, rather than via Famailla and Tafi del Valle, you miss the most spectacular scenery of all. How much desert do you need? Wouldn't a bit of sub-tropical jungle make a nice change of pace?
Amy said:
Hi Brice,
Loved reading your website with the pictures and comments. Am from Canada so let me know if you guys would consider a trip to the Canadian Rockies. If you have already done that would love to read about it.
Keep them coming!!!
March 14, 2005
Condors
En route to Londres we came upon a huge group of condors resting in a gulley. This was the biggest one, staying put when the rest took flight.
Croker said:
Hi Brice,
These pics look amazing. How far are you going - 2,000km? Lots of fairly pretentious writing to go with the pics too - very commendable. Have you acquired loads more tats recently, or have I just never seen your arms before?
Enjoy yourselves!
Paul
jorge said:
Interesting. En esta foto, Scott lleva un resemblence llamativo al condor.
March 15, 2005
Uva II
The Malbec grape, in Hualfín. They are transported up to the bodegas in Cafayate. Our innkeeper in Hualfín loaded us with several pounds of these and of the white Torrontes grape.
March 17, 2005
Ruinas Quilmes
A seven kilometre side road brings you out of the Calchaquí valley to the foot of the mountains, where lay the ruins of a pre-Colombian settlement, Quilmes. It is a bit like Machu Picchu in Peru, though in less dramatic surroundings.
Steve Wright said:
Alright there Brice you slag,
Glad to see you have practiced crossing roads since the N.P trip.
Looks like you have been sampling the local Argie wines by the dozens, I'm sure they're cheap and tasty. I'm hopeing to try myself some time in May.
That locro looks good but I think the puzzled look is from the lack of booze on the table.
Have a great one.
Steve
March 18, 2005
Ruinas El Pichao
More ruins lie to the north of Quilmes, and probably throughout the region. We climbed up through some amazing, unexcavated ones while trying (unsuccessfully) to find Mount Quilmes.
Steve Aldred said:
They soon found themselves in hostile terrain. So hostile that even the cactus gave Brice the finger.
March 19, 2005
Cafayate
Roughing it in Cafayate
We have been in Cafayate for a couple days and are living the good life, much appreciated after the spartan voyage from Belén via Hualfín and Santa Maria. We're going to press on from here up to Cachi and then continue straight up the high pass and over to San Antonio de Los Cobres. (Click here for a more detailed map.) Unfortunately the road is unpaved pretty much from here to SA de Los Cobres. We are budgeting 5 days for that passage, and we are taking loads of food from Cafayate -- but none of its fabulous wines.
Roman Alokhin said:
Nalivay vina Brison! Molodets!
Can't wait to have you over at Tom's in the good-old TN, sit by the fire, have a beverage or two, or three, listen to Jane's and hear about the trip.
Udachi Vam s Scottom!
March 20, 2005
The 'Mormon' shirts
It seems that a majority of our friends are completely stumped by the button-down dress shirts we are wearing most days. Many of you have asked what these shirts are all about, and some have questioned how I can be wearing such a nice shirt on an expedition when I could hardly ever be bothered to wear such exquisite threads to work...
Peter Day said:
"...you can fasten only one or two buttons in the front and your stomach and chest can catch most of the draft that is created when you cycle."
What was that Brice, something for the ladies?
"Gripping the handlebars with his vice-like grip, not at all developed in a metrosexual gym, Brice fixed his eyes in a determined glare at the dusty mountin pass rising vertically before him, his calves of granite driving the cogs round, sweat pouring from his ripped upper torso down to his navel..."
Anyway, thanks for clearing this whole cycling in shirts thing Brice, we were all wondering.
Steve Aldred said:
Brice: that wild-eyed, glazed-over stare of yours, combined with the passion you exude for minor textual details could also get you confused for a Mormon.
Here's a tip: I've noticed the Mormons never wear cuff-links. Next time you hit a major town you should buy some and distinguish yourself from the tub-thumpers that way. However, you might be mistaken for a banker, so be prepared to answer a lot of questions about what exactly you were doing rogering the economy for the benefit of all your mates with that trickle-down theory.
Gearing up for the ´world´s steepest pass´
Quebrada de Cafayate
It´s been about a week since my last update, and since that time Scott and I have cycled from Chilecito to a cool town called Cafayate, in one of Argentina´s ´high-altitude´ wine-growing regions. Almost the entire time, we have been on barren desert plateaus (actually ancient floodplains), often flanked on both sides by soaring mountain ridges that stretch as far as the eye can see. The scenery has been desolate but stunning, with many of these narrow ridges resembling lines of multi-coloured shark fins (this description is mainly for my Cantonese friends). In fact, some of these ridges are so narrow that one can instantly make out the single plates of which they are constituted, jutting out sharply into the wide-open blue sky. Cycling along these ridges, it´s easy to imagine the subduction zone underneath, with plates pushing these pastel-coloured shelfs thousands of feet into the sky. Breathtaking.
Continue reading "Gearing up for the ´world´s steepest pass´"
Hamid said:
Brice,
This site is great! Beautiful pictures from beautiful lands. By the way, today is the first day of the new Persian year (1384). If you run into any Persians during the next two weeks in Argentina, don't forget to surprise them by wishing them Happy Norooz. Best wishes for a successful journey.
Gerry Tucker said:
A superb trip - I knew about the wines, the deserts and the altitude, but not the ruins that far South: thanks for the enlightenment.
You are both of course completely mad, but the World's a more interesting place for your being so, so bonnes voyages.
Gerry
(at desk in Hong Kong)
March 21, 2005
More on the wines of Cafayate
Today I made the pilgimage to San Pedro de Yacochuya, the peak of Cafayate's wine industry (figuratively and literally; it's at 2045 metres).
Bernard Hinault said:
Hi Scott,
Could you please concentrate on your bike and less on the wine industry ?
Best,
Bernard Hinault & François
George said:
cuando hay el vino, que necesita el agua, expecialmente en el desierto?
Jens Tholstruo said:
Thanks for the great photos of Cafayete and Yacochuya. Did you drink any Yacuchoya? Is it an impressive winery? I hope you sent some back to Oxford.
Your trip sound amazing. Keep up the diary and wonderful pictures.
Best wishes,
Jens
March 22, 2005
Loro
We caught first sight of these birds on the Argentine side of the Agua Negra pass, below about 3500 metres. The loro is green or blue and makes a terrible racket. It was ever present along Ruta 40 but only up to the Abra el Acay pass... the Altiplano seems not to its liking.
March 23, 2005
Leaving Cafayate, up the Calchaqui Valley
The road turns earthen 25 kms north of Cafayate and remains that way for the duration of Ruta 40. More traffic than we expected and terrible washboards. Overtook a pair of German cyclists and a third from France, the first long-distance cylists we've seen.
Continue reading "Leaving Cafayate, up the Calchaqui Valley"
March 24, 2005
March 25, 2005
March 26, 2005
Abra el Acay -- Day 2
Huffing high above Negra Muerta
This photo was taken midafternoon on the second day towards Abra El Acay. We had just passed a sign "Negra Muerta" and thought we were nearing the top. The sign outside of La Poma says "Abra el Acay: 42 (kms)" and by this time of the day we had already cycled 37 kms. So we were sure the top was close. We began to take photos and whoop and holler.
Roman Alokhin said:
Brison,
Was that "finger-flip" a sign of happiness or were you just hung-over from all that wine?
I'm happy for you guys to have conquered all of this beautiful and rugged terrain.
“Continue camping damn it!”
Can’t wait to see the slides!
March 27, 2005
Abra el Acay -- Day 3
Our campsite at 4500 metres. Note the switchbacks to the top.
We summited the Abra el Acay on the third day from starting in Cachi. My camera battery ran out the morning we reached it but Brice's slides will be tremendous.
March 28, 2005
Side-trip to Salta
Bife de Lomo
We left the bikes in SA de Los Cobres and took a six-hour bus journey down to Salta, the provincial capital, at a balmy 1000 metres.
As with most places in Argentina, Salta served up thick, juicy bife de lomo -- a.k.a. cyclists' delight. I haven't eaten this much red meat in my life. Bife practically constitutes our every dinner or lunch. It's what the body craves and what Argentina offers in spades. That and extreme scenery with high passes.
March 30, 2005
Near Salinas Grandes
Battening down the hatches against the burros
We cycled 81 kms on bad road from SA de Los Cobres to a spot near the Salinas Grandes, a large salt flat. The spot was perfect but the night was punctuated by "burro attacks". The area, at 3600 metres, is populated by several groups of burro and vicuña. Not long after nightfall we were roused by the sounds of galloping hoofs just outside our tents. It was like a bloody cavalry out there. The burros were just curious or playful or maybe resented our presence. Whatever the case, they filled the night with cacophonous burro whinnying.
March 31, 2005
Cuesta de Lipan
Cuesta de Lipan
At Salinas Grandes the road comes to the newly paved Ruta 52. To the west is the Paso de Jama into Chile and San Pedro de Atacama, to the east the Cuesta de Lipan pass leading to Purmamarca and Ruta 9 up to Bolivia. We bid farewell to Ruta 40, which we've followed exclusively since striking into Argentina way back at San Juan de Jáchal. Happy to be on pavement, we headed west over the Cuesta.
April 01, 2005
Route 9 -- Humahuaca
These Humuahuaca caballeros will be happy to tell you about the history of this city and the legend of its santo.
Below Purmamarca we joined Ruta 9 for the last haul up to Bolivia, our final kilometres of paved road on this trip. We stopped for lunch in Tilcara and to see the ruins of El Pucará. An afternoon hou feng (tailwind) blew us into Humahuaca.
Mark said:
The shirt of the young man on the left suggests he is a VfB Stuttgart supporter. If you are still in contact, better not mention that they lost 2-1 against Hansa Rostock this weekend.
April 03, 2005
Against the Wind: Humuacha to the border
Early start on the second day to the border
We left Humuacha at 1 pm -- just in time for the afternoon wind blowing off the Altiplano. It picked up speed with each hour, becoming gale-force by the final hours of the day. Hence the 7:20 am start the following day.
April 04, 2005
Reflections on Crossing the Abra El Acay
It's been about a week since we crossed the Abra El Acay, the mountain pass that the Argentines claim is the 'world's steepest pass'. Whether or not it is the world's steepest motorable pass (actually, long bits of the road are challenging for 4x4 vehicles), one thing is for damn sure -- it is bloody steep!
Before we even got to the foothills of the pass, we were getting warnings that the idea of cycling it was dubious at best. Most of the locals in the tiny pueblitos along the road had never been to the top, and they only knew that the road was 'muy feo' and the top of the pass 'muy alto'. Perfect, we thought.
Alex Moore said:
Ahoy there Bricey Boy!
Hope you're all wrapped up warm in those cold mountain passes! Bbbbrrrghhh! Remember the nights we used to spoon for warmth when we shared a tent going to the North Pole? I can see from the photos that you look absolutely ripped! Can't wait to see you when you get back.
Kisses
Lexi
April 05, 2005
Route update
We've uploaded a dozen new entries and tons of new photos, covering everything from Cafayate to La Quiaca, the border of Bolivia, where we are now. We're off to Bolivia tommorrow and hope to reach Tupiza in a couple of days. From there, we'll cruise south-west via San Pablo de Lipez and Quetana Chico past a bunch of lagunas and a few huge volcanos, ending the trip in San Pedro de Atacama, back in Chile.
Susana said:
Brice & Scott,
Wow! Impressive...can't wait for the slideshow(s)...
Blue sky and fresh air...I'm jealous...nothing like that in Beijing.
x s
Croker said:
Hi lads,
The photos look amazing. I think you've put an extra "0" on the reference to the distance, though, as I've plotted your course and it's only a couple of hundred miles in total.
I've just read a book about a prison in La Paz where they organise prison tours. Go there, say you know Thomas McFadden (former inmate who started the tours, and who the book was about) and be sure to ask for a "puntito". Or just be obvious and ask to see Charles.
Enjoy the rest of the trip. What does it feel like being away from it all for that length of time? I've forgotten.
All the best,
Paul
Gerry Tucker said:
Well steak and eggs - just like home! Are you chewing cactus for vitamins, or is the wine balancing your diet sufficiently?
I've just come back from the San Fernando (yacht) Race, where we had a couple of days of winds gusting to Force 7, so I empathise with you trying to cycle in such weather.
Pedal cycling that sort of terrain would give me a heart attack in minutes, but I've been wondering whether it might be motorcycleable? If so:
* how much of a dirt bike as opposed to a road bike might be needed?
* what would be the chances of being mugged of the bike (a substantial risk for a different trip I've had in mind)
* is petrol sufficiently available out there?
It will be tough for you guys settling back into desk jobs and breathing our air ...
Taking the road less travelled is making all the difference: may your gods be with you.
Gerry Tucker - back at desk in Hong Kong
Day trip to Yavi
Iglesia de Yavi
On our second rest day in La Quiaca we made a daytrip out to Yavi, a small pueblo with a cool church. The caretaker saw our bikes and asked about our trip. When I said we entered Argentina via the Agua Negra pass, she lit up. "Oh yes, I know it. Near San Juan?"
I told her it was, and she said her husband is from San Juan de Jáchal. I told her that SJ de Jáchal is the coolest city in Argentina, which it is.
April 06, 2005
Welcome to Bolivia
We crossed into Bolivia at Villazón and quickly found ourselves back on earthen road. There was plenty of climbing to do en route to Tupiza and not a few trucks throwing up clouds of dust. Out came the face masks we bought in Salta. We got on with the day's 95 kms with a minimum of nonsense. As a result we made it by nightfall and were glad to have done so.
April 07, 2005
Volcan Uturuncu
photo Madeleine Humphreys
Volcan Uturuncu rises to 6008 metres in the southwest of Bolivia. It is on our route and we will try to cycle to the copper (some say sulphur) mine at 5900 metres, making it the highest road in the world. From a quick Google perusal, can't find anyone who's cycled it BOTH DIRECTIONS. A downhill ride is being organised for September 2005 ... "ascending to 5500m by 4x4".
I've compiled below a few links on Uturuncu.
micah said:
oh my god, that is so beautiful....i have so enjoyed traveling vicariously through these images....wish i could see the final slide show....would love to purchase some of these prints....
good luck on the last leg of the journey....
Tupiza
Catedral de Tupiza
Tupiza is the staging point for the final expedition of the trip, and probably the most li hai or sai lei for you Cantonese speakers.
We gathered information this morning about the route from here to San Pedro de Atacama, via Quetana Chico. We'll leave tomorrow and it should be a good, if hellacious, ride.
The world's highest 'motorable' pass?
We're about to begin the final stage of the journey: from Tupiza, Bolivia to the southwest, cutting across the highest (and most scenic) bit of the Bolivian altiplano. After what we think will be several days of cycling, we will finally spill out into the Atacama Desert of northern Chile, near San Pedro de Atacama.
But before we can get that massive oxygen blast by descending from the altiplano into the low-lying desert, we have plenty of high-altitude cycling left.
Pending weather conditions and more ground reconnaisance in the next few days, we may attempt to cycle what could be the highest 'motorable' road pass in the world -- an old mining road that is said to stretch to 5,900 metres (19,357 feet), just about 108 metres shy of the 6,008-metre summit of the towering Volcan Uturuncu. Read on:
Tom said:
Good luck...
Great site, by the way. Neil is so envious I suspect he may melt.
Tom
April 11, 2005
San Pablo de Lipez
Scott left a message today and asked me to update the website. The following will keep our thirst quenched until they reach internet access. Merav
We are here in San Pablo de Lipez.
Took us 3 days from Tupiza. Pretty hard ride. We took the high road from a place called Cerrillos. Didn’t see a single person or a single vehicle all day. Really pass after pass after pass. As high as 4700 meters. Really really grueling cycling yesterday. All 3 days were awesome cycling though. We had enough water - we stopped twice on the way for water and took all the water we could and we made it.
We are going to San Antonio de Lipez today. After that we will take 2 days to get to Quetana Chico and from there we will try to cycle up Uturuncu, the volcano, but we we'll see how it goes. Doesn’t look like there is much snow so I think it should be ok. Weather is awesome.
It’s really high but we are super-acclimatized. We were at the highest pass of the day and we felt fine. It was amazing. It’s the most challenging cycling I have ever done. People told us if we go this way it is going to be "subida, subida" - to go up, to go up, to climb, to climb. It was insane! From Tupiza one pass after the other. One pass after the next, after the next, after the next. Boom, boom, boom, boom.
But now we are at 4750 meters and will stay at this level for quite a while except for a few passes and of course the volcano…
Jeet said:
Heya Scott,
Sounds like you're reaching the really gruelling part of the journey. Remember to get some photos of youself struggling up steep mountainsides with blood and sweat pouring off you to keep Andy G happy. Anyway, just thought I'd say that the journey looks truly epic and the diary is pretty fab. I'll let you know about any good routes through India when i start my new job in Delhi from July! ;-)
take care mate
Jeet
April 21, 2005
Tupiza-San Pedro Passage
The journey from Tupiza, Bolivia to San Pedro, Chile was the most difficult -- and rewarding -- of the trip.
We've created a dedicated website for it, called Tupiza Passage. http://www.altunshan.com/andes/archives/tupiza/
Huw Cooke said:
Brice - in all the photos you always seem to be at the back. Is that tactical?
Caroline said:
Hello Scott
Wow, these pics look amazing - not remotely jealous!
I won't follow Andy G's lead in shouting abuse at you!! I am v impressed that you are at altitude and cycling well. Also v glad to see that you are quaffing the wine with regularity!!
See you for monumental night out at some dodgy venue when you get back
Caroline
Neil said:
Scott, congratulations on completing your trip. I have thoroughly enjoyed following your progress via this site, and have immense respect for what you have achieved!
Look forward to seeing you back in Oxford soon.
All the best
Neil
May 01, 2005
Steve Aldred said:
Brice:
Glad to hear it all worked out great in the end, and that Jorge came through with the Charlie. Sorry about the mix-up, it's just a Rio thing.
Amazing web site by the way. Truly amazing. Looks so realistic, as though you actually were there. Didn't know you'd learned Photoshop.
I'm surprised you found enough time to create it, what with being so close to the delights of Copacabana Beach (now I'll have that awful song in my head for days, I just know it).
Looking forward to the slide show.
Toodle-pip
Steve
Jurgen said:
Hi,
I am right now in Sucre, trying to decide how to cycle on. The Worlds Highest Pass seems super attractive, I just wondered whether you made it up there. I could only find the plan to ride it, or maybe I missed it on your excellent web site.
If you could just drop me an email. Thanks in advance. Were you able to buy a detailed map in Tupiza? I cannot find one here in Sucre. I have a good Bolivia map but just not that section in good detail.
Jurgen.
jurgenanke@wanadoo.nl