April 07, 2005
Introduction
On the forty-seventh day of our cycle trip from Santiago we shifted into high gear. The journey over the high Bolivian southwest Altiplano, from Tupiza to San Pedro de Atacama, would be our grand finale.
Before leaving Tupiza we visited some of the tour agencies which run 4x4 excursions into these high mountains. We needed basic information like critical junctions and availability of food and water.
The first thing Tupiza Tours said was Don't do it.
"Go up to Uyuni and cycle from there, like everyone else. From Tupiza it would be too difficult." They emphasised that this region is all about climbing. "Subida, subida, subida."
We just replied that we have "mucha experiencia en la cordillera." That's no boast, just a reflection of our 10,000 plus kilometres of cycling history, 4,700 of it in Tibet. The point is that we've cycled mountains before, and we've come to this venture as well prepared as is likely possible: relatively fit from the several high passes in the 2,500 kms of Andes cycling we'd made from Santiago; outfitted with -12 degree sleeping bags and good tents; and having plenty of carrying capacity for food and water -- not to mention solid bikes and a Spartan approach to what we take with them.
The travel agencies introduced us to their drivers and we spoke about the route.
Given the lack of information on this route, and the near total absense of signage (whether for passes or junctions), we took detailed notes and present them here for the benefit of those who want to try this very challenging route.