April 14 (evening) - Quetana Chico

This is our seventh day from Tupiza. We are extremely weary. No appetite for Uturuncu, we've climbed more than enough. Hoping to be in San Pedro de Atacama in three days; probably unrealistic.

Morning was so much better today than yesterday - perfectly still, so the sun warmed things up instantly. Shite road until we hit a work site. Foreman asked us for a cigarette. Then local work crews grading the road by hand. Better road. Small but steep cuesta (as always in Bolivia). Descend to Quetena Chico. Ask someone in town for a restaurant. he leads us to a house, and a senora. She agrees to make us lunch for 10 Bolivianos each: bifstek de llama; arroz; papas fritas. It was awesome. Also had real coffee and a great soup -- sopa de fiteo. (?) Total 15 Bolivianos each. Like everyone else, she has a big wad of coca leaf in her cheek.